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PACESHIP CRUISING YACHT Maintenance Manual

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PACESHIP
CRUISING YACHT
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL

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Summary of Contents for PACESHIP CRUISING YACHT

  • Page 2 Much of the technical terminology has been omitted for clarity, We believe that PACESHIP builds a fine product, however, we also realize that it is possible to have minor problems from time to time. Many times I have found problems have occurred because owners have not used the boat properly or have misinformation concerning some aspect of it.
  • Page 3 For those who are new to sailing and fiberglass boats, the following list of terms may be helpful in understanding the instructions included in this booklet. BACKSTAY - Wire slanting sharply aft from the mast for the purpose of supporting the mast. BAIL.
  • Page 4 GOOSENECK. A metal fitting, normally a universal Joint securing boom to mast. GUDGEON - An eye fitting to hold pintles of a rudder. HALYARD - Rope or wire used to raise sails. HEAD . Upper corner of sail. HEADSTAY - Usually the forward stay, sometimes called forestay. HELM - The tiller or wheel used to steer a boat.
  • Page 5 TURNBUCKLE - A threaded link which pulls two eyes together for setting up standing rigging. VANG - A wire or rope used to steady the boom (Boom vang). WHISKER POLE- A light pole or stick used to pole out a jib to windward to permit sailing wing to wing on a run, when spinnaker is not set.
  • Page 6 ENGINE PRE-SEASON PREPARATION It is suggested you follow the engine manual supplied with your boat. However, if you don’t have a manual, the following general instructions will be helpful. The power train should be checked and tuned up at the start of each boating season. Those who take the time and trouble to do this will have few problems.

  • Page 7: Starting Your Engine

    SUGGESTIONS FOR OPERATING INBOARD ENGINE 1. Ventilate engine compartment by opening hatches and starting blower fan. 2. Check fuel supply and make sure fuel lines are tight. Any fuel seepage or leaks should be corrected before you attempt to start the engine. 3.
  • Page 8 ENGINE OFF-SEASON STORAGE (1) Before taking boat out of water, run engine sufficiently to bring up to normal operating temperature. (2) Drain crankcase completely. Refill with prescribed amount of oil recommended by manufacturer. Start engine and operate a few minutes at high idle. Stop engine and check oil level. Some oil will remain in the engine resulting in a slightly low reading on the dip stick.

  • Page 9: Lightning Protection

    CARE AND CLEANING OF SAILS OIL-DIRT-MILDEW: Store sails dry. Wash in warm water with soap or detergent but not biological washing powders. MILDEW: Scrub Iightly with a stiff brush. Then soak for two hours in a cold, diluted solution of bleach (1 part Domestos to 10 parts water).
  • Page 10 THE CARE and MAINTENANCE OF STAINLESS STEEL Though the corrosion resistance of stainless steel contributes greatly to the carefree life of the boatman, the metal can provide even better results with reasonable use and care. Maximum corrosion resistance starts with clean surfaces, and usually stainless steel marine equipment can be kept clean simply by washing it down on a regular basis.
  • Page 11 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTICS The plural components remain in liquid form until two or more are brought together in the gun in the proper proportions and mixed. This mixing results in a chemical heat reaction (thermosetting) causing materials to solidify (cure).
  • Page 12 REPAIR OF FIBERGLASS GELCOAT The repair of gelcoat is easy because only the surface of the boat is damaged. This is similar to a scratch in automobile paint. The damage falls into two categories: (1) Damage to the gelcoat colored outer surface. (2) Holes or gouges that are deep enough to penetrate the fiberglass reinforced areas of the boat.
  • Page 13 CARE OF FIBERGLASS BOATS Gelcoat, which is the color material used on fiberglass, is susceptible to the bombardment of ultra-violet rays of the sun and to general weathering. These elements, In time, cause a fading of the color and a chalking of the surface.
  • Page 14 A WORD ABOUT CORROSION Corrosion is evident in many forms, and we see it every day. It eats holes in your automobile, causes hydro breakdowns, it can crack a bridge, wreck an aircraft or riddle a pipeline. It works in the air, underground or underwater.
  • Page 15 GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING LEAKS Generally, leaks can be broken down into two categories: (a) Below waterline leaks. (b) Deck leaks. A systematic procedure is the best way of finding and fixing any leak. Therefore, the following is a general procedure for finding leaks in any boat: ABOVE WATERLINE OR DECK LEAKS: These leaks are usually easier to find than the below waterline type.
  • Page 16 These items should be checked when moored. The bilge should be pumped and dry as possible. Operate the boat under sail on both tacks and under power. Have someone competent go below and check all the list of Items again. Some leaks seem to defy every known method of detection.
  • Page 17 ACADIAN 30 HULL & DECK - The hull is one piece hand lay-up fiberglass. The keel is made of cast Iron (3400 lb.) and is fiberglassed inside the hull. All thru-huII fittings are fiberglassed into the hull and have seacocks installed.
  • Page 18 NORTHWIND 29 HULL and DECK: The hull is one piece hand lay-up fiberglass. The lead keel (3150 lb.) is made in two pieces, which are installed one on each side of the centerboard trunk. All thru-hulI fittings are fiberglassed Into the hull and have seacocks installed. The propeller shaft log containing the stuffing box is fiberglassed securely into the hull.
  • Page 19 It is also a good idea to tape or cover the spreader ends to protect the jib from chafing. THE CARE AND UP-KEEPOF TEAK NORTHWIND, ACADIAN, WESTWIND, PACESHIP 23, BLUEJACKET: Teak is a remarkable wood. Even so, it has its peculuarities and if you are to get the most from it these must be taken into account.

  • Page 20: Hull & Deck

    WESTWIND 24 HULL & DECK Both the hull and deck are one piece hand lay-up fiberglass construction. The centerboard trunk is moulded integrally with the hull. Approximately 2370 lbs. of cast iron ballast is fiberglassed into the inside of the hull. A separate outboard well is also included which has a bulkhead separating it from the remainder of the boat.
  • Page 21 PACESHIP 23 HULL and DECK Both the hull and deck are of one piece hand lay-up construction. We use 11/, oz. mat and 24 oz. roving throughout the boat. The keel is mounted to the hull and has a separate moulded keel grid that gives great strength in this area.
  • Page 22 The outboard motor well is exactly the same arrangement as that used in Westwlnd. Please follow the recommendations contained there. RIGGING The rigging used on Bluejacket is exactly the same as used on Paceship 23. Please refer to that section for information. Page 21...
  • Page 23 It is important to correctly position any boat in its cradle. Incorrect procedure can cause distortion of the hull and possibly internal damage. The correct position for each boat is listed at the end of this memo. The following are general guide lines for any Paceship Cruising Boat: 1. Use only the correct cradle for each model.
  • Page 24 7/16” Samson Braid Jib Sheet 77’ 0” 7/16” Samson Braid Downhaul 5’ 0” 5/16” Samson Braid Paceship 23 Forestay 28’ 9” 1/8” x 1 x 19 Backstay 30 1 1/8” 1/8” x 1 x 19 Upper Main 26’ 10 7/8”...
  • Page 25 A Word About Corrosion Checking For Leaks 14, 15 Acadian 30’ Northwind 29’ 17, 18 Care of Teak Westwind 24’ Paceship 23’ Bluejacket 23’ Cradles and Storage Rigging Specifications Rigging Northwind Rigging P-23 Rigging Acadian 30’ Rigging Westwind 24’ Rigging Bluejacket 23’...